Project Runway: Project Runway x Ashley Longshore
January 24, 2020 6:22 PM - Season 18, Episode 7 - Subscribe

Collaborations between fashion designers and artists are all the rage. In this challenge, the designers get a chance to enter into one with the fashion industry’s latest art darling, Ashley Longshore. Ashley’s outrageous pop art, turned into one-of-a-kind prints, gives the runway some of the boldest looks of the season.

The looks on

Episode recap on Elle

Discussion on TLo's podcast
posted by kitten kaboodle (16 comments total)
I loved this ep, loved Geoffrey's care and consideration for Dayoung, watching the group form/reform over minor crises, and also having those prints to play with.
posted by Gin and Broadband at 6:44 PM on January 24, 2020 [1 favorite]

It was so nice to get away from black and gray, wasn't it? I'd never heard of the artist but I enjoyed her energy and the fact that people were forced to work with colors--it was great to see how they made Delvin smile and come out of himself more.

Geoffrey is such a sweetheart. It felt like a stark contrast with Victoria, especially at the end (someone sure is a sore loser). I was glad at least that she helped Dayoung, who I'm honestly really worried about.

It was also a relief to have some of the Sergio drama toned down in favor of seeing other people emphasized. Christian's critiques seemed especially on point in this episode, and I really enjoy the specificity of his suggestions. It's really to their peril when they don't listen, like Nancy and Victoria, and their success when they do, like Delvin.
posted by kitten kaboodle at 9:38 PM on January 24, 2020 [3 favorites]

I really hate any pick-your-team/pick-your-favorite-person type things. Should have just been a button bag with luck of the draw after Chelsey got first pick for winning last week.

Did not love Brittany's mustard-y pleats, but the rest of the dress was cool and she seemed genuinely inspired and excited which was so nice to see. Hope she's really a nice person and not a mean girl as it seemed she was toward Nancy a couple weeks ago.

Geoffrey's was adorable and hilarious. (You know I'm gay, right? That exchange with Christian made me lol) I thought Delvin's still looked like pajamas but I think it is the print that looks to me like flannel, at least from a distance.

So glad the judges took note of the fact that Victoria is really just making the few things she can make, without much thought to the challenge parameters. And her very poor reaction to people trying to be kind to her really felt childish/graceless after all the praise she's received before now.

I'm glad Nancy stayed but they were right about the enormous shapelessness of that coat. I loved the pants and was glad she survived. I agree it was nice not to have so much focus on Sergio. Throwing off that cocoon thing was weird, wasn't it? I don't think any other model on this show has ever thrown a piece of a garment down and left the runway without it! Was sad to see Marquise go - even thought for a moment Christian might give him another chance.
posted by Glinn at 7:24 AM on January 25, 2020 [1 favorite]

It was so nice to get away from black and gray, wasn't it?

Definitely. I always enjoy the print challenges, as they can be a stretch for some of the designers (although in some of the 'make your own print' challenges from previous seasons, too many of the designers have created monochrome prints.) But it's good to see a bit of colour on the runway - I think that's why Mondo was always a favourite of mine, because that boy did love a print (or three) and a splash of colour.

I'd not heard of Ashley Longshore before, but her fabrics were fun and brought out the best in some of the designers. I liked Delvin's pant suit, and Geoffrey's dress was fun (although it did remind me of Japanese harakuju clothes). I wasn't all that keen on Brittany's outfit but I also didn't mind her winning.

Nancy paid for not listening to Christian, but Marquise's construction was poor and, as the judges said, at this stage of the competition, poor execution and fabric choice will get someone sent home.

I think if Victoria turns out another similar outfit next time, she'll be in some difficulty. She's proved herself to be a one-way monkey (™Dmitry Sholokhov) and the novelty of a quirky style wears off quickly with the judges if that's all they see every week (for example, Ven and his rose fabric manipulation, which wore very thin after it had been seen every week - although making the same thing week in, week out did work for Erin a couple of seasons back).

I fear Christian will be using his save on Victoria, although I hope he uses it on someone more deserving like Geoffrey, should the need arise.

Low-key Sergio this week, which is a blessing for us all. I quite liked his outfit under that cocoon coat. But I did think Chelsey was very rude to him in the scene where he was offering to help with her corsetry. Rather than ignoring him she could have said "thanks, but Delvin and I have got this". Maybe (probably) it's all in the editing, but it came across as graceless and unnecessary.

(Also, I have a friend who watches this with her 11-yr-old daughter, so I warned her in advance to expect questions about dildos, heh.)
posted by essexjan at 8:50 AM on January 25, 2020 [1 favorite]

Pretty much only came here to post something snarky with “one-way monkey” in it. But that has already been taken care of, so here’s a video of Dmitry saying it.

I really didn’t care for Delvin’s look, but it was nice to see him look happy. And I agree that it was fun to have the designers forced to use colors and prints. I think this challenge did it much better than the animal print challenge where people defaulted to some monochrome leopard style print (except Delvin I think).

The Chelsea/Sergio interaction was uncomfortable, but it’s hard to tell what’s going on behind the editing. To be honest I’m not sure Sergio wants to help and might be more interested in being The Explainer or patronizing whoever he’s talking to. We’ve seen him do that in the past and I can imagine that Chelsea maybe just wasn’t in the mood for the Look How Amazing Sergio is Show.
posted by bjrn at 10:10 AM on January 25, 2020 [2 favorites]

Random thoughts from this episode:

While I really like colours and prints, I thought a lot of the ones offered to the designers were really tough to work with in terms of colour and scale and pattern repetition.

I don't get the praise for Delvin's tailoring skills this week. Those pants were terrible, especially the way they moved at the crotch. The only thing that saved them was the amount of stretch in them. (Mind you, I'm seeing so many similar problems with poorly designed pants in the stores and on people that I'm starting to wonder if I just don't understand how pants are supposed to fit these days.)

Was it my imagination (or lack of attention) or did Christian avoid doing a consultation with Sergio? Or if he did interact with him, it was very, very brief.

I'm not too sure why Brandon was dishing out such strong praise for Brittany's pleats. To me they looked a little rough or sloppy or something

I'm really not impressed by Victoria's attitude, and I'm so over her one-way monkey designs (I was going to say one-trick pony ways, but there is a specific Project Runway language that everybody is rightly using) -- I'd love to see her try to fit her designs on a larger model who more a more prominent set of hips and a bust -- but I did like the sportiness of the top part of her design with the contrast ribbing. I'd certainly consider buying a top with similar elements (although no cut outs). Of course, this wasn't the challenge to enter that top, but thankfully Nina pointed that out to her.

Speaking of busts, I don't have a good enough memory of the models to know how they all self-identify, but I was really shocked to see that one model shot bare chested multiple times. Usually this show takes care not to show bare female (or female-presenting--sorry if that's not the correct wording) nipples. I think on the odd show where they they design menswear, the models' bare chests are shown in the workroom during fittings. If no visible nipples are the standard working rule for AFAB models, then it should be the working rule for all models brought in to wear the womenswear. it's simply a matter of treating everybody in the same position equally.
posted by sardonyx at 12:43 PM on January 25, 2020 [1 favorite]

I too had never heard of Ashley Longshore before this, I would love to hang around with her for a day and watch her work. Such fun designs. She was very kind with her judging, I thought. Fave moment was her saying the design made her basement flood, and Brandon's over the top reaction. He was positively scandalized. And he honestly didn't seem to know what it meant...heehee.

One-way monkey! Totally forgot about that, so funny and so true. Victoria is in danger, and so she should be. Her ungracious attitude right in front of Ashley at the beginning was a real mistake. Very immature. "I don't like prints"....ok that's a shame. And I thought she had the best print, it's the one I would have chosen, for sure. It was almost elegant.
posted by the webmistress at 1:29 PM on January 25, 2020 [3 favorites]

Another Ashley Longshore ignoramus. I loved what I saw though, the hugely magnified gemstones would've made a great print. I'm beginning to find it irritating how the designers overreact to everyone they meet. It reminds me of the scene in Elf, "SANTA!!! OH MY GOD!!! Santa, here? I know him!!!"

Did I miss the discussion about the actual fabric content? Was it cotton? Rayon? Poly? Woven? Stretch? Was it all the same weight? All the comments were about the print colors/motifs but not about the actual hand of the cloth.

Marquise was an uneven designer but I didn't realise he was self-taught. He was robbed last week in the ethnic heritage challenge when he made that patchwork top and the overalls with knit cuffs in one day. His lack of training showed this week when he got the curvy model and couldn't fit her bust. He could've pivoted and made something less close-fitting but that carried the risk of making the model look bigger.

I disliked Brittany's win. Delvin had the right idea, let the (very) prominent print do the work. The straps, the pleats, the Frankenstein hem, the 3D butterflies, the cold shoulder, more straps. It screamed, I threw every wacky idea into my garment.

I didn't understand the objection to Victoria using white for the top. If she'd left off the black chain and made the pants into wide-legged palazzo pants, it would have looked better (although still way too repetitive). I think it was Elaine who suggested using the same fabric for the top too, which, ((shudder)), yeah no.

I don't think anyone hit it out of the park this week.
posted by TWinbrook8 at 1:47 AM on January 26, 2020

Sergio's pissy little disappointed face after being so sure he was in the top and then being told he was safe...oh, it gave me life.
posted by Mr. Bad Example at 5:30 AM on January 26, 2020 [2 favorites]

There was absolutely no information given about the print fabric. I know it's not the show that PR is, but that's exactly the type of show I want: I'd be thrilled to get rid of all those getting-ready-in-the-morning-putting-on-my-make-up shots that the stuff into every show and swap them out for a discussion of fabrics and techniques and actual sewing and design topics
posted by sardonyx at 7:40 AM on January 26, 2020 [4 favorites]

Throwing off that cocoon thing was weird, wasn't it?

Takes us alllllllll the way back to season one, actually, though it never came to fruition.
posted by praemunire at 5:15 PM on January 26, 2020

posted by amtho at 10:17 PM on January 27, 2020

Ordinarily I disapprove of the popularity-contest method of choosing fabrics/models/etc., but in this case the stakes were a lot lower, since everything is a big loud colorful print anyway. Also, I may have snickered out loud at Sergio being last-picked. I am not a fan of Ashley Longshore's work or career at all, but I admit that it was fun to have her shaking up the proceedings and forcing these designers to use some color. Brandon's uncomprehending shock at "those pants flood my basement" also made me snicker.

My prior goodwill for Victoria evaporated when she was such an incredibly sore loser after once again wilfully ignoring the actual assignment. Also, is Nina under some sort of magical enchantment to claim that she didn't even recognize Victoria's garment? It's another slight variation on the same theme, Nina. Who the fuck else uses midriff cutouts crisscrossed with straps every runway, Nina?

I think that only significant difference between Chelsey's and Delvin's was the styling and the models' strengths. Both designers just made kind of a standard garment using the print, but Chelsey's model looked washed-out, while Delvin's model really rocked the color. And they liked Delvin's personal story better this week.

Oh, poor Marquise, that blouse didn't fit her chest at all. I realize that he didn't originally select that fabric, but when he adopted it from Geoffrey, he should have modified his shirt design to something more forgiving to a busty model. I actually liked the bees, though.

I don't personally love Brittney's garment, but she did absolutely nail the challenge.
posted by desuetude at 3:24 PM on January 28, 2020 [1 favorite]

Daeyoung really hit me in the feels in her interview when she was wondering what was wrong with her and why she was so “fragile”. As someone with a chronic condition it’s soooooo frustrating when your body fails you like that and everyone else is like, “Welp, guess you’re not good enough, then!” I’m glad her look was in the top and I loved it.

I actually didn’t hate Marquise’s. Maybe I just loved the pattern but the outfit looked fun, apart from the unfortunate darting.
posted by chainsofreedom at 10:46 AM on January 29, 2020 [2 favorites]

There is a new show on Netflix, very similar to PR! Many/most of the designers have worked in the industry, several for big names. Hosted by Tan France ("Queer Eye") and designer Alexa Chung. First season dropped in full Jan 29.
Next in Fashion - we probably need a Fanfare thread, maybe the whole season at once?

First episode, 18 designers paired into teams (some teams already know each other and some don't weirdness). 2-day challenge, one dress per team, one team eliminated.

(Not sure this old PR thread is a good place for this info so if I don't post the new show, I will mention it in the next PR episode thread.)
posted by Glinn at 6:30 AM on January 30, 2020 [2 favorites]

Glinn, yes, I'm enjoying Next in Fashion very much (once I got over the shock of Alexa Chung's legs in the first episode). We definitely need a thread for it.
posted by essexjan at 2:01 PM on January 30, 2020 [2 favorites]

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